16/01/2019

Connect the dots

One of the things I've wanted to make the most when I started sewing was a tulle skirt. The ones from the stores were either not puffy enough, in the wrong colour, poorly made or made with bad quality fabric. But there was always something more important to sew. Even though it was one of my first sewing dreams, it took me 6 years to actually make one.


It all happened by accident. I was on a fabric hunt for a school project, saw this beautiful dotted tulle and just couldn't resist. For the lining I choose the wrong (matt) side of a satin and added two layers of tulle underneath to add volume. Each layer is a gathered rectangle. I decided to go with the invisible zip in the lining and opaque snaps in the dotted tulle and waistband. Two other layers are only partly sewed, so they wouldn't require any fastening. I decided to finish only the lining hem, using the hem tape. I think that the dotted tulle looks more delicate without any tapes or bindings.





It's still my only handmade tulle skirt, but I really want to make another one. It's very puffy, but that's why I love it. It's time to make a darker one.

15/12/2018

Worth of sewing

I have a tendency to not tell much about the sewing process. It's not as easy and quick as people might think. In the age of fast fashion society makes you believe that sewing is not that time consuming. Since people can have new piece of clothing or accessory within few minutes, tailor's job is not as respected and understanded as it should be. It's something noticable across the world. So we decided to spread the awareness with the "Worth of Sewing" project. Sewists from different communities teamed up to talk about what actually stands behind sewing. We decided to measure the time it takes to turn an idea into the finished piece of clothing and ask our followers to guess what was the result. I went with the dress.


Originally I had a totally different concept for this project, but since it was very simple I decided to make something else. I always have a brainstorm while taking a shower or right before falling asleep and that's when I came up with an idea. I wanted to make an everyday dress with a touch of a retro style. With a quick sketch I had the whole concept - a floral, off-the-shoulder dress with a fitted bodice, 3/4 sleeves and knee lenght gathered circle skirt. I bought the perfect poplin few weeks earlier, decided to combine it with cambric lining. For the bodice I choose a self-drafted pattern I made last year for my evening/prom gown. Since it was made for fabrics with a stretch I had to adjust it a little, cause the cotton I choose had one. I moved darts a little and changed the width of the bodice. I usually cut lining fabric first and do any adjustments on it, then cut the main fabric. That's exactly what I did this time. I added some stay tape on neckline, zip seam and waist line of the skirt. It was finally time to sew. Unfortunately, just as I was finishing the bodice I noticed that I forgot about the fabric having directional pattern. Everything was upside down, so I had to re-cut it. Then all I had to do was sew darts, side seams and insert the sleeves. I gathered the skirt, attached it to the bodice and then repeated every step for the lining. I sewed in the zip to the main fabric and then combined it with the lining on the neckline and sleeve hems. I hand stitched the lining to the zip, finished the skirt hem and the only thing left was to give one last pressing. 

The whole thing took me 18 hours and 23 minutes. Here's how much time each step took:
  • idea and sketch                                                            - 1 hour 11 minutes (7%)
  • gathering all te supplies                                          - 22 minutes (2%)
  • preparing the fabric                                                  - 46 minutes (4%)
  • patternmaking                                                              - 57 minutes (5%)
  • cutting the fabric                                                         - 3 hours 43 minutes (21%)
  • fusing interfasing                                                        - 44 minutes (4%)
  • sewing                                                                               - 5 hours 33 minutes (31%)
  • pressing as sewn                                                         - 59 minutes (5%)
  • fitting                                                                                 - 23 minutes (2%)
  • adjustments                                                                   - 1 hour 1 minute (6%)
  • finishing touches                                                         - 2 hours 24 minutes (13%)
  • putting my heart an soul into every step      - immeasurable





Was your guess correct? Do you have a better idea of how much it takes to create something? Remember that each creator works differently, so the outcome wouldn't be the same for ther seamstress. Be sure to check the hashtags #worthofsewing and #wartośćszycia on social medias to see what others made for this project. And if you're a creator yourself, join us! Ask your followers how long they think it took you to make something and add the hashtags, so we can find your post.

30/07/2018

Up in the air

Those of you who follow me on social medias (mostly Instagram) might know that past months were quite intense. I graduated from high school, had my final exams (and passed everything), traveled few times. Basically a lot of things happened and I couldn't find time to sew. With a broken heart I watched makes of other, very talented sewists and planned what I will sew when I'm finally able to reunite with my sewing machine. In the meantime I ordered few things from miekkie.com and decided to use a beautiful cotton with metallic birds from their "Up up and away" collection for my comeback project.


I originally ordered this fabric specifically for pattern #127 from Burda Magazine 2/2015, but when it arrived I decided to do a simple off the shoulder top. I didn't had to use any pattern. I've cut out 4 rectangles (front, back and two sleeves) and with few measurements created parts of the armholes. All I had to do is sew side and sleeve seams, attach the sleeves, create a tunnel on a neckline for an elastic and finish the hems. I couldn't decide whether I should do a regular hem, or finish it with a bias binding. My Instagram followers were very helpful (thank you once again!) and with their decision I finished my top with golden bias binding to match metalic birds on the fabric. Sewing this top was exactly what I needed. Fabric is very easy to work with, top was quick to make thanks to not complicated cut.




Quick side note - you may experience some technical difficulties with my page this week. We're changing a lot of things. Sorry in advance. But it'll be worth it!